Vintage Autoharp Buyer/Seller Guide
for Oscar Schmidt A-Model Autoharps

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Common Problems: Sellers unwilling to look under the endpin cover (held on by 2 screws) to check possible separation (as with all the harps to the left). Sellers unable to see under the chord bars where the face my have a crack emanating from the soundhole (top arrow at left). Some models didn't have sound holes. If the top plate is separated (as pictured with bottom left arrow), the harp is in especially bad condition. This is almost impossible to repair and the harp is basically worthless. It is sometimes warped under the chord assembly. It is good to assess and disclose this too.

This is a standard list I send to everyone, containing things that are sometimes there and without my asking, and without your looking, I, or someone else could end up being unpleasantly surprised.

1. Does the harp have any cracks on the face or back (or anywhere else)? Especially on the models with a sound hole, they tended to start to split from that hole (going up or down). It's a little hard to see because you have to peer under the chord bars.

2. Does it have any separation at the bottom end under the end pin cover? Two screws hold that cover on if you would look. Nothing bad will happen except you might find that it has come unglued there and you should feel good about revealing that to prospective buyers. It could prevent hassles later. This separation happens to many of these vintage harps.

3. Is there any warpage in the face or back (top or bottom)? Those plates should be smooth and flat. Chord bars should not touch strings until pressed down and they should go down evenly.

4. Are the felts badly worn (indicated by deep grooves)?

5. Are there any signs of poor attempts to repair the instrument, for example, unoriginal looking screws or nails in order to close up separated wood, sometimes seen in the lower back of the instrument.